法国厨师爱德华·乔托（Edouard Chouteau）在上周在巴黎举行的面食世界锦标赛上竞争：“面食触动了世界上所有的人。”尽管Chouteau对意大利面有普遍的看法，但他的标志性“ Pastatouille”并没有超越第一轮。尽管如此，他仍然充满灵魂，并乐于代表他的国家参加意大利面的奥运会。
Barilla的面食世界锦标赛起源于2012年，是first pasta championship of its kind。It was also an effort by Barilla to celebrate the cultural relevance of boxed pasta and the culinary possibilities the medium allows. Though the competition’s format is still evolving, the title has become a formidable feather in the cap of talented young chefs with major culinary aspirations. Last year’s winner, an American named Carolina Diaz, is now the chef di cucina at Chicago’sTerzo Piano，在广受好评的厨师托尼·曼杜阿诺（Tony Mantuano）下工作。
This year, 18 chefs representing 18 countries engaged in heated pasta competition in a pop-up Pasta Stadium in Paris’s Pavillon Cambon, an opulent bilevel former bank equipped with four double-cooking stations, decked out with shiny Smeg appliances and spacious countertops that allowed for plenty of ogling by five judges and hundreds of spectators. Chefs cooked off head-to-head; the winner of each bracket, plus a wildcard contestant, progressed to two additional rounds of competitions, one focused on Barilla’s line of healthier pastas, and the other on refining a signature pasta dish from the first round, based on judge’s critiques. (These included everything from “I would never order this in a restaurant” to “Where’s the acid?” to “Why is there so much acid?”)
这是比赛在意大利以外举行的第一年。适合今年的主题，即意大利面的艺术，许多盘子都呈现在法官的桌子上，就像悬挂在奥赛博物馆或中心蓬皮杜（Pompidou）的桌子上，仅是可食用的。
The chefs paraded into the stadium by country, waving their national flags Olympics-style. Following the fanfare, the cooking began. Each chef had two minutes for prep and then 50 minutes to prepare his or her dish.
During each round of the competition, eight cooks worked simultaneously. Hungry spectators surrounded their stations inhaling the scents of caramelizing onions, leaning over pots of simmering cubed butternut squash, and fidgeting in anticipation as the chefs started testing their al dente pastas, twirling long noodles for the perfect spiral or arranging shorter noodles meticulously. And yet, the competitive atmosphere was as intense as a sporting event: Heaven Delhaye of Brazil, the first contestant to win her round, immediately lifted her phone in front of her face and began hopping around and dancing while chanting “Brazil! Brazil! Brazil!” in celebration with her422,000个Instagram关注者。
代表美国的是肖恩·特纳（Sean Turner），厨师Louiein Clayton, Missouri, just outside St. Louis. He beat out the rest of our nation’s competitive pasta cooks at semi-finals held in Pebble Beach, California this April. A bright red St. Louis Cardinals cap that one spectator dubbed “très Americain” (U! S! A!) obscured his face as he pounded fresh basil, parsley leaves and toasted pistachios in a basketball-sized mortar and pestle. His girlfriend, parents, and sister eyed his progress. Meanwhile, his competitor, Christian Carrieri, an Italian representing the United Arab Emirates, crafted a “masterpiece” rigatoni in red, green and white sauces representing the flags of both his countries. It knocked Turner out of the competition.
With the USA gone, it looked like North America was out altogether until Kshitiz Sethi, a young Canadian chef just two years out of culinary school, rebounded as a wildcard: His pasta con le sarde, a “multicultural” rendition of a classic Sicilian recipe, impressed the judges tremendously. Growing up in New Delhi, Sethi wasn’t super familiar with pasta, but his first job out of school as a pasta cook educated him in the versatility of the noodle.
At the start of day two, the remaining competing chefs once again paraded into the arena waving their national flags. The atmosphere was becoming increasingly tense. I watched Delhaye lift a ring of vegan pesto on a white plate, inhaling sharply along with many antsy viewers as some herb infused oil splattered on her plate. She wiped it off. A save!
虽然目标，篮子和三轴轴是精确且可衡量的，但味道是并且永远是主观的。尽管如此，比赛仍使奥地利厨师塞巴斯蒂安·布齐（Sebastian Butzi）成长为踢美式足球的日子。他说：“我喜欢竞争，你可以找出谁是最好的。”“当您参加比赛时，您必须表现出最好的表现。一个小时前还是之后，您都必须在确切的时刻保持良好状态，没关系。”他说，在一家餐厅里，准备服务就像为比赛做准备。一旦桌子坐下来，就会变得全面竞争。在家做饭是完全不同的。这很轻松，他可以与朋友和女友一起做一些有趣的事情：爱好而不是俱乐部运动。
For the championship, Butzi elected to chef-up what he called a “poor man’s dish” with “good, basic flavors” to impress the judges. His first-round linguine had wowed them, thanks, perhaps, to his timed cooking drills in his restaurant’s kitchen, but his deconstructed eggplant Parmigiana in the second round did not.
意大利Matteo Carnaghi通过肤色的土豆拉链，变成奶油酱，以供他的标志性意大利面patate，并用原始的langoustines，面包屑和贝壳重塑。他还经过了深入的训练，每天在比赛前每天钻他的标志性菜肴，此举在他们在意大利经典赛上品尝了他独特的即兴演奏后，从评委那里获得了五票。
他告诉我：“面食是您可以为朋友做的最好的事情。”His deconstructed pasta alla norma didn’t beat Delhaye’s vegan pesto in the next round, though, so one may predict he’ll be skinning a lot of eggplants and roasting a lot of cherry tomatoes to defend his second dish to his friends (he confirms this is likely). A third Italian, Nicola Pelligana, competing for Australia, also progressed to the second round, honoring his grandmother’s mandate to cook “with love” though he didn’t make it to the final.
In the Gran Finale—Japan, Canada, Brazil, and Switzerland—all four chefs cooked simultaneously, staggered by just a few minutes so each signature plate would hit the judges’ table seconds after plating. Guests sipped Aperol spritzes while crowding around the finalists, some offering advice based on earlier feedback: “Remember portion size!” No wooden spoons were slammed down. There were no major kitchen mishaps. Nonetheless, the suspense grew. After a short respite to refill everyone’s drinks, the 2019 World Pasta Champion was crowned.
日本竞争对手凯塔·尤格（Keita Yuge）在2017年比赛中没有超越第一轮，他的佩恩·阿尔·戈尔贡佐拉（Penne Al Gorgonzola）与牡蛎和日本香气一样给评委留下了深刻的印象，这是一种复杂的，狡猾的海藻，牡蛎，牡蛎，清酒，prosciutto，prosciutto，，奶油和一些uuzu装饰。他没有获得奖牌，而是获得了青铜意大利面，饰有头衔和一瓶香槟。为了庆祝，尤格（Yuge）做了他最喜欢的事情：他为人群烹饪了丝滑的双壳类涂层Penne。
I tasted it. Reader, it deserved a medal.
维瓦尔第（Vivaldi）的春季运动
Bucatini与开心果香蒜酱
serves 4
Cooking Time: 35 min
- 8盎司（240克）Bucatini意大利面
- 5oz (150 grams) pistachio, shelled
- 1/3 cup (80 grams) shallot, diced
- 5oz (150 grams) Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
- 3 tbsp (50 grams) lemon juice
- 1 1/2 C (340 mL) extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup (120 grams) basil
- 1/3 cup (75 grams) flat leaf parsley, fresh
- 1/3 cup (75 grams) fennel fronds, fresh
- 2 tsp (10 grams) kosher salt
- Additional Parmigiano Reggiano as needed to garnish
- 额外的开心果根据需要装饰
在325°F的烤箱中烤开心果。5分钟后，将它们移动到四面八方。然后，再过5分钟后，让它们冷却。
In a food processor, pulsing and scraping the sides with rubber a spatula, blend the herbs, lemon juice, kosher salt, and diced shallot to obtain almost a paste. Reduce all large chunks.
Add the pistachios, retaining a few for garnish, and cheese and salt, and pulse until pistachios are finely reduced.
While running the food processor, drizzle slowly the olive oil. Adjust for seasoning.
Boil water for pasta in a large pot. Cook the pasta al dente and strain, retaining a cup of water.
In a pan combine pesto with pasta. Add some pasta cooking water, if needed, in order to obtain a creamy sauce. Toss until well coated.
上面搭配新鲜的磨碎的帕米亚诺·雷吉亚诺（Parmigiano Reggiano）和开心果压碎。
食谱由肖恩·特纳（Sean Turner）提供