许多关于冰淇淋探索方法论和技术的书籍存在 -如何of making top-notch ice cream. Rare is the tome that explains the science behind it, the careful engineering and balancing act required to produce a rich, creamy, and consistent product. One reason may be that the science behind ice cream is more complicated than it seems.
In James Beard Award-nominated pastry chef Dana Cree’s debut book,Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream-一种2018年IACP食谱奖获得者-her first recipe doesn’t even appear until page 50. She spends much of the book’s first section exhaustively breaking down ice cream to its molecular level—a balancing act involving ice, fat, protein, and sugar, plus air. It’s a fascinating and scholarly read on one of the simplest pleasures of life, and how to use your newfound knowledge to produce the most delicious end product.
手表Dana Cree使她的钥匙石灰派冷冻酸奶onA.V.俱乐部直播。
The Takeout: So you attended冰淇淋学院。你在那里学到了什么？是什么汉堡大学？
达娜·克里（Dana Cree）：We learned the ins and outs of ice cream manufacturing, from standards and practices, to how to clean your equipment, new legislation on ice cream safety, how a continuous-feed ice cream maker creates ice cream versus a batch freezer, and the flow of milk through a pasteurizing system. It had much less to do with making ice cream like we do at home, and much more to do with how ice cream is manufactured by dairy plants. Which was very interesting to me! They also touched on the physics and chemistry of ice cream—how stabilizers and emulsifiers function at a molecular level, the legal requirements behind labeling your ice cream. And there were some courses with more levity, like the workshop on vanilla, and a trip to the barns to visit the cows. They have a cow with a giant plug in their side, so they can reach in and check digestion in the rumens when they study feed.
TO: What’s the most interesting fact about the science of ice cream you learned while writing this book?
DC:我了解到的最有趣的是，冰淇淋是液体，固体和气体的同时。一旦我意识到这一点，为什么质地很难完美，这是有道理的。使所有三个事务保持持久状态都需要令人难以置信的平衡。
TO: In the book you talk about the role that color plays in ice cream and the various food coloring you’ll employ. Why is color so important?
DC:味道不仅仅是味道。味道是我们从舌头上收到的信息，这实际上只是五件事：酸，甜，苦，咸和鲜味。But flavor is defined by all our senses, from the thousands of aroma compounds in food we perceive through our olfactory gland—ever wonder why you don’t perceive flavor when you have a stuffy nose?—to the way texture feels in our mouth, to the sound, or lack thereof, when we eat. Our eardrum is so close to our mouth it would be impossible for us to eat and not use our sense of sound.
但是我们的眼睛是我们从中收集有关食物的信息的第一感，食物的颜色有助于我们预测味道的味道。因此，我们首先用眼睛，始终和颜色饮食是这种味道的最强指标。我们食物中颜色的力量是如此强大，它可能会误导我们，并且通常无法首先看到颜色，就像您蒙住眼睛时，无法分辨可乐和7UP之间的区别。通过在中性冰淇淋中添加颜色，我们可以帮助吃它的人以非常漂亮的方式识别味道。
TO: I’ve seen a lot of scientific explanations discussing the difference between ice cream, gelato, frozen yogurt, and frozen custard. Can you explain the differences between them, but from a taste and culinary perspective?
DC:From a taste difference, gelato is creamier, smoother, and softer. From a culinary standpoint, gelato—it’s made with a different machine that churns it with less air, and the base has less fat in it. Because it’s denser, it feels creamier without there being more cream in it. It is also meant to be eaten right after it’s made, like soft serve, before it hardens up. So it’s a little warmer than ice cream, allowing you to taste the flavors more rapidly.
从味觉的角度来看，冰淇淋更坚硬，您可以咬住这种勺子，而且非常丰富。当您吃冰淇淋时，口味往往会徘徊。从烹饪的角度来看，冰淇淋在Butterfat中较高，并搅拌出更多的空气。然后将冰淇淋硬化过夜。因为它首先变硬了，而不是像冰淇淋一样食用的一天，而是通常包含丝带，块，块和坚果，因为它会过夜，并且可以在冰淇淋放在冰箱中放置在适当的位置。
从味觉的角度来看，冷冻的蛋ust是您吃过的最厚，最密集的软冰淇淋。像冰淇淋一样，它是在制造的那一天就可以吃掉的，但是甚至更快，因为冷冻的蛋ust被直接挤入了服务杯中。像冰淇淋一样，冷冻的蛋ust通常包含加载项，这些加载物被折叠到厚的冷冻蛋ust订单中，通常称为混凝土。从烹饪的角度来看，冷冻蛋ust的质地完全取决于冷冻的蛋ust机，该机器将冷冻甜点搅动，上面没有空气。
Frozen yogurt is a split topic as there are two styles—the frozen yogurts in my book are just like ice creams that highlight the tang of the cultured dairy with the texture of ice cream. But somewhere along the line, frozen yogurts became a low-fat version of soft serve, which is actually pretty low-fat to begin with. From a taste standpoint, these frozen yogurts are just soft-serve ice cream with a little tang, and are very light in texture and eaten the moment it’s extruded from the ice cream machine. From a culinary standpoint, they are lean bases made with a touch of yogurt, and texturally are dependent on a soft-serve machine, just like frozen custard.
TO: I’d never heard of Philadelphia-style ice cream before reading about it in your book. What is it?
DC:费城风格的冰淇淋是制成没有鸡蛋的冰淇淋。这种风格在美国非常普遍，我们只知道它是冰淇淋。
TO: Speaking of Philadelphia, cream cheese plays a bigger role in ice cream than I thought. Why is it important?
DC:奶油奶酪是一种可选成分，具有非常浓缩的牛奶蛋白来源。当添加到冰淇淋中时，它会增加固体物质，从而取代冰，以一种非常美味的方式使其成为更稠密的冰淇淋。蛋白质也可以帮助将冰淇淋中的一些水绑定。但是，奶油奶酪也经常有稳定剂，当将其添加到冰淇淋中时，它们也可以改善质地。
到：可以不用手动曲柄或冰淇淋制造商制作冰淇淋吗？如果我没有所有设备，则最简单的方法是在家近似冰淇淋？
DC:我不能主张没有冰淇淋制造商在家制作冰淇淋。这不是“所有设备”，而是一台简单的机器，它会产生完全独特的纹理，与您所能近似的任何内容不同。成本比几乎所有其他厨房用具都低的厨房用具要低，所以不要用黑客猴子猴子！他们总是会像黑客一样味道。
如果您想制作冰淇淋，请购买冰淇淋机。Craigslist是找到冰淇淋制造商的好地方，如果您担心成本，人们正在从自己的冰淇淋冒险中放弃。否则，亚马逊将在几天之内就在您家门口，您可以搁置半熟的无机冰淇淋，并挖掘好东西。但是我要说的是，如果您将冰淇淋倒入模具中，那么书中的所有冰淇淋底座都会冻结为冰棍。您也可以将冰淇淋从加载项部分浸入融化的巧克力块中，它会像魔术外壳一样在它们周围变硬。