从负鼠到果冻:我们的总统吃的东西会影响我们对他们的看法

插图:Nicole Antonuccio

当涉及塑造遗产的棘手业务时,每位总统都对他们的领导风格,外交政策方法和其他政治决策等要素有一定的控制,这些决定在个人离开办公室后很久就影响了。But when it comes to the cultural side of a president’s legacy—how they’re remembered in the public’s collective consciousness—the list of contributing factors can skew a bit more flighty: personality quirks, memorable public appearances, pop culture entertainment choices, and what they liked to eat. Our more recent presidents have had their culinary choices captured and analyzed everywhere from late-night talk show monologues to Twitter. But a wide variety of food-related stories have contributed to the legacies of past presidents via tall tales, newspaper clippings, and history books.

当托马斯·杰斐逊(Thomas Jefferson)在1801年就任我们的第三任总统时,他已经以富有尊严的巴黎风味品味的文艺复兴时期的文艺复兴时期的声誉享有丰富的声誉。杰斐逊(Jefferson)在美国担任法国部长期间培养了他对法国美食的热爱,众所周知,在食物上既有冒险的调色板,又具有极其好奇的精神。杰斐逊(Jefferson)对目前不满意的一顿饭不满意,详细记录了有关菜肴,食谱,食材和技术的详细说明,因此当他回到美国时,可以为他重新创建特定地区的菜肴。在巴黎和意大利享受了美国的观众之后,他经常将通心粉和奶酪与美国观众普及,并将整体成分和面食制作机运送回美国以供自己使用。杰斐逊(Jefferson)曾经是坚定的弗吉尼亚人,还热衷于保持他长大的烹饪影响力,经常通过在他的巴黎家园的花园中种植弗吉尼亚州的农作物,将两种地理美食融合在一起在蒙蒂塞洛。

杰斐逊(Jefferson)在1800年的总统大选期间,杰斐逊(Jefferson)作为法国人的著名法国人被证明是一个复杂的问题,因为美国选民似乎同样对他的忠诚使他成为美食或精英人士。在赢得了有争议的选举之后,杰斐逊举行了豪华的白宫晚屋,使他的选民着迷,他们喜欢阅读包括巴黎糕点,布格餐厅,奶酪屑,昂贵的法国葡萄酒在内的富豪总统差异,以及质朴的根蔬菜,玉米饼,田野,玉米饼,田野蔬菜,田野,玉米面,玉米般的葡萄酒和弗吉尼亚火腿。

尽管杰斐逊的烹饪遗产是围绕实际的菜肴和食材,但泰迪·罗斯福(Teddy Roosevelt)的进餐时间轶事展示了我们的第26任总统如何将餐桌上的东西用作娱乐和与围绕它的人进行娱乐和联系的手段。Where Roosevelt’s own day-to-day menus may have been notoriously run-of-the-mill, any chance to entertain guests proved a call for exotic table spreads of colorful game and curious international teas that functioned as a catalyst for Roosevelt to hold court over lively conversations and bouts of storytelling around his extravagant travels and fantastical adventures. For all of the many legislative accomplishments that were enacted under his tenure, Roosevelt’s larger-than-life personality may be what endures longest in history’s remembrance of him, a fact that would not be surprising to anyone who shared in one of his mealtime performances.

威廉·霍华德·塔夫脱(William Howard Taft)在罗斯福著名的脚步中具有令人羡慕的立场。他无法完全摆脱阴影,可以在一个故事中总结一下塔夫脱(Taft路杀比精致的票价。Taft’s love of roasted possum was so well documented, a post-election, pre-inauguration banquet in 1909 featured a Taft-requested main course of “possum and taters”—an 18-pound possum presented on a mound of sweet potatoes—followed by the president-elect being ceremoniously presented with a stuffed toy possum. More than just a playful gift, the stuffed animal called “Billy Possum” was designed to become the nation’s next frenzied toy trend in the same way that Taft hoped to successfully succeed his predecessor Roosevelt (whom the teddy bear toy was actually inspired by and named after). While the “Billy Possum” toy craze never took off and Taft himself never came close to achieving the level of national adoration that Roosevelt did, Taft does hold the distinction of being the only president to serve a 26-pound possum as the pièce de résistance at the annual White House Thanksgiving feast.

Theodore’s cousin Franklin Delano Roosevelt led the country through most of The Great Depression, the era of the New Deal, and World War II, and he was always mindful of the optics of his office in light of the economic turmoil of his first and second terms. In 1939, with the country still hard at work trying to rebound from the Great Depression, the Roosevelts hosted a state dinner for King George VI and Queen Elizabeth at their summer home in Hyde Park, New York. Instead of an extravagant, multi-course meal meant to dazzle and impress, the British monarchs were instead treated to a picnic of hot dogs, beer, and strawberry shortcake. It was a spread both all-American and economical, two incredibly important ideals to the constituents of a country in rebuilding mode. Dubbed by the press as the “Hot Dog Summit,” the meal was part of a significant trip by the royals, as it marked the first time a reigning British monarchy had visited the United States. It was also meant to help warm the frosty relationship between the two countries that had lingered after World War I. England declared war on Germany just three months after the political picnic, and historians give much credit to Roosevelt’s wiener roast as the PR stunt that cemented the English as U.S. allies, while moving America away from isolationism.

对于在现代可见性时代任职的总统来说,他们的基于食物的经历和轶事可能会从可爱到灾难性。1976年,杰拉尔德·福特(Gerald Ford)在竞选期间在竞选活动中访问阿拉莫(Alamo)时,他被递给了一盘玉米粉蒸肉,并咬了一口,而没有去除外部的康复者。人造PAS如此迅速地传播,以至于被称为“大塔马莱事件”,并被福特的批评家用来将他与文化失去联系和无能为力。福特最终将输给吉米·卡特(Jimmy Carter)的德克萨斯州(和总统总竞标)。

我们最近的所有总统都与食物有联系,这些食物转化为这些领导者的更深层次的特征。吉米·卡特(Jimmy Carter)作为一名Hayseed Georgia花生农民的描述为他因担任无效总统职位而受到边缘化的声誉做出了贡献。罗纳德·里根(Ronald Reagan)疯狂地记录下来的对果冻的热爱,他的声誉是一个温暖,祖父的领导者或可操纵的孩子般的dolt,具体取决于您进行的投票的哪一侧。有线新闻频道很高兴地运行乔治·H·W(George H.W.)的无限循环。布什在日本总理上呕吐,并尽最大努力捕捉比尔·克林顿(Bill Clinton)的所有弹出式弹跳式爆发事件,同时“麦克乔格(McJogging)”,为莱特曼(Letterman)独白提供了很多饲料周六夜现场短剧。Did the playfully manufactured story about Barack Obama’s “seven almonds before bed” routine gain such quick legs because he was already seen as having a measured character or do those types of tongue-in-cheek tales actually help create and crystallize the narrative of a diplomatic disciplinarian for future generations?

然后是我们目前的总司令,他在公众眼中的政治意义上的短时间内积累了令人印象深刻的基于食物的泡沫。恐怖的光学器件包括他关于特朗普塔炸玉米饼碗的gro吟的推文(“我爱西班牙裔!”)和他准备好像任何红色的蓝领美国人一样,准备好肯德基的肯德基水桶……叉。据广泛报道(并证实)特朗普像他的牛排一样做得非常好(侧面有大量的番茄酱),他的甜点课程使他在其他所有人的单勺中都用双勺冰淇淋。His love of McDonald’s runs so deep that he’s asked the White House chefs to recreate some of the beloved burger chain’s menu items—all except the non-existent “Fish Delight” that Trump oddly mentioned to Anderson Cooper during a CNN Town Hall question about his favorite McD’s foodstuffs.

因此,如果历史最终记得特朗普是一种顽固主义者,他笨拙地捣碎了高眉和低调的美学,他们具有公开的幼稚倾向,甚至可以轻松地操纵这些烹饪纱线的最小机会,这是最小的机会。该记忆的塑造。尽管这些类型的故事在表面上似乎微不足道,但毫无疑问,它们有助于创建和控制我们对总统固有的性格特征的看法。As each new course of Trump’s food stories give us a bewildering peek at the man-child behind the curtain, it’s hard to anticipate what could possibly follow up having a Diet Coke-summoning button installed on his desk or having a missile launch take a back seat to “the most beautiful piece of chocolate cake that you’ve ever seen.” But perhaps Trump’s dessert course is the most revealing: He’s the only person in the room getting two scoops of ice cream, putting himself ahead of the concerns of everyone else.