我会原谅你拿着沃格勒的书,烟与气味,是自命不凡的。这是关于寻找稀有和手工精神的旅行,例如种植者生产的Armagnac和Small Batch Mezcal,以寻找首发。再加上那个沃格勒的崇高血统:耶鲁大学毕业生经营着该国最著名的两个酒吧计划,旧金山的酒吧农业和特鲁·诺曼德。但是,这本书是可以读书的,即使对于那些从未涉足Calvados或Havana的人来说也是如此。
沃格勒(Vogler)在感性的细节中壮观地讲述了我们为什么喜欢旅行,或者唤起旅行的饮料:神话,故事,性感的景象和声音。在他的古巴分会上,读者正在与他一起穿过哈瓦那·维耶(Havana Vieja),闻到夜空中的雪茄烟雾,听到旧汽车发动机的溅射性断断续续,这是一种过于甜美的莫吉托糖的糖,仍然在我们的舌头上徘徊。他是一位精彩的细节编年史,也是对性格的敏锐法官,对他的旅行伴侣的性格提供了直截了当但仍然慷慨的估计。
当然,如果您是精神怪胎,您将获得最大的收益。(I plan to send it to my own cognac-loving brother for Christmas.) But Vogler’s message is more universal: Artisan has become such a buzzword that, despite the popularity of small-batch everything, we risk losing its true meaning and therefor the foods and beverages that honestly embody it. Given my beer background, I found many parallels to traditional European farmhouse ales and regionally specific lagers.
If Vogler has a thesis statement in his 200-odd pages, I think it’s this, from his armagnac chapter: “To taste a spirit produced in the same way and from the same material it was made a hundred years ago is to connect through the experience of taste with our ancestors, to know how they lived. It is time travel and communion… We dread becoming just bartenders: shills for shitty brands, not champions of the beautiful.”
是的,宣布自己为“美丽的冠军”可能会因有点势利而赢得声誉,但我认为沃格勒会很关心。他是一个执行任务的人,十字军东征的笔记非常值得您花时间。